YITAMOTOR 50" LED Light Bar Combo with 2x 18W Spot Light Pods, Wiring Harness & Roof Mounting Brackets for 2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK - Off-Road Lighting for Trail, Camping & Night Driving

Item came well packaged and defect free when unwrapped. As others have stated, the holes for mounts at first seem to not line up well with existing bolt holes, but if you put outside 3 bolts in first and leave them loose, the front two bolts will line up if you push in towards center of vehicle on the mount. When bolts are tightened up, you will see mount shift its shape very slightly - it appears that they just have the bends in the mount bent slightly tighter of an angle than necessary, causing this appearance of holes not lining up initially. Leave the mount on one side (whichever side you will be running the wire harness on) loose, as you will need to pull it back off after you have the light bar wired to harness, so you can route harness down underneath the mount - there is a gap just the right size underneath the center of mount bar between mount and the A-pillar for harness to fit, but you have to pull bolts off so mount can come off enough to get harness behind it. A second set of hands here are extremely useful here to get light bar mounted, then to hold mount with light bar up while you get wire harness placed underneath the mount.On a side note, the bolts for windshield mount use a T-40 torx, and the bolts for the panel under the windshield wipers is a T-30 torx on '08 jeeps - probably the same size for all newer models as well...As far as installing the lights, use the short allen bolts included for the light bar mounting - the long ones are too long and will bottom out. You will not need these (or the small stand-off mounts included - don't know why they put these in this kit for a JK). Leave the short allen bolts loose in light bar until you have the mount re-installed after getting wire harness positioned properly underneath it, then aim light bar where you want it and tighten screws.I followed others suggestions regarding whistling noise experienced from the roof light bar, and installed door edge trim on back edge of lower fins prior to installing light bar, since that was the easiest time to do it. I used black door trim which blends in nicely with light bar finish, & is available at your local Walmart in an 18' roll for cheap. Never gave it a chance to see if I would have the same whistling or not - edge trim was cheap, and installing it first seemed like a no-brainer to me.Pod lights take a few minutes to figure out additional bracket for, seeing as how no instructions for installation for ANYTHING are included in this kit. The small curved bracket goes underneath the pod, with the stud in the pod going through the slot in the bracket. Be sure to put the included bolt in through the bracket prior to mounting bracket to the pod, with this end of bracket closest to front of pod - this bolt will be the mount bolt that attaches to the windshield bracket and allows for left/right aiming of pod. The stud on pod allows for up/down aiming of pod. Sorry for such a bad description, but there are several U-tube videos on the installation of this kit that show what I am trying to describe, and do a much better job of showing the pod assembly and installation.The included wire harness for the roof light bar leaves something to be desired, but does the job. There is a LOT of extra wiring coming from the light bar left over after hooking up light bar and running wiring down to engine compartment, but I left it and coiled/zip-tied it in a bundle for future re-wiring - I am going to be installing a relay box (S-pod) at a later date on left front of jeep engine compartment in the future, and there should be enough wiring here to reach the box where I am planning to mount it.Some have said they just wired the pod lights to the wire harness included, as kit doesn't include a separate harness for the pod lights, but I would recommend against this as light bar harness appears to only be built to handle the 300 watts needed for light bar. Adding the pods to same harness increases the amps an additional 10% and risks over-amping the harness and melting something or catching something on fire. I purchased the extra harness that Yitamotor makes for 2 light pods so that I can operate pods independently from light bar, since it was cheap (under 9 bucks). In hindsight, I wish I would have just made my own harness, as the one they make for 2 pods is not long enough to reach both pods in this set-up - 1 on each side of windshield. Harness had same problem as the supplied harness with it having a junk switch. It did have the required relay and in-line fuse needed for a separate circuit, but everything else on harness I either replaced because of using my own switches, or had to add extra wiring to harness to get it to reach both pods.The switch included in the included wire harness for the light bar is junk, but it does function (I left it wired to harness just until I had light bar installed to test it for operation, then cut it off and discarded it to run my own switch). If you will be using your own switch, you will cut off the small blue and black wires from back of the relay socket going to the switch, and only use the small white wire to run to your rocker switch. Make sure you cap and stow the blue wire you cut off if you don't cut it off flush at relay socket, as it will still have power to it, & you don't want it to touch something and short out the relay (blue wire was for power to the on/off indicators on included switch). This is what I did on mine, on the slim chance I may want this for a future hot lead for something that just needs a low amp power source.When running the wiring for a better quality rocker switch that can be hard-mounted in a switch bracket in cab (I chose the A-pillar replacement panel with cutouts for 4 horizontal switches), the white wire you left on wire harness from relay socket will run into the cab of vehicle and go to pin #3 on a 5-pin rocker switch (I used CH4x4 rocker switches on mine), then run a hot 12v + power wire to pin #2 (I ran mine from the cigarette lighter power wire), a switched power wire to pin #6 (on my JK, I found this on the orange/grey wire in the wire bundle just inboard of accelerator pedal & just forward of center console trim) This is a dimmable circuit on JKs, so backlight on switch comes on & dims with dash lights when dimming dash, Run a ground to pins #7 & 8 (jumper these two pins together and run a single wire to existing ground stud on vehicle).The pins on 5-pin rocker switches are used as follows: pin #2 - 12v power in to switch to operate accessory/lights; #3 - 12v power out from switch to relay to operate accessory/lights; #6 - dimmable power in for backlight in lower light (or RH light on horizontal switch); #7 - ground for upper/LH backlight; #8 - ground for lower/RH backlight. Using this wiring setup for switch lights up one side of switch with dimmable light enabled when you have running lights or headlights on, and other side of switch lights up full bright when accessory is switched on.Hope this helps anyone else who is thinking about purchasing this kit. I dropped 1 star due to issues with wiring harness and no instructions of any kind being included, but otherwise I am happy with this kit - they are extremely bright, and fairly cheap compared to some other brands. Time will tell how they hold up...